Wipe again with silicone remover shortly before painting. No fingerprints on the surface!
2
Base Coat
Apply base coat in 2-3 thin layers. Allow to flash off for 5-10 minutes between layers.
3
Clear Coat
After 20-30 minutes, spray 2K clear coat in 2-3 layers. This adds shine and protects the base coat.
4
Drying
Allow to dry dust-free for at least 24 hours. At room temperature, no direct sunlight.
Attention
A dust-free environment is essential! Wet the floor and close the garage door. Every speck of dust will be visible in the paint later.
The Goal
Now it’s getting exciting! The prepared parts are getting their new paint job. The tank and side covers are being coated with high-quality base coat and clear coat.
Pro Tip
Before use, warm spray cans in warm water (not hot!) to approx. 25°C. The paint will then spray more finely and evenly.
2-Coat Paint Finish
2-coat paint finish is applied
https://staging.mountaingolf.eu/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/kawa_lackieren.jpg425980AutoTomTurbohttps://staging.mountaingolf.eu/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/logo_2017_340x156.pngAutoTomTurbo2018-12-18 09:13:462018-12-18 11:05:03#04: Paint body parts
Eye-catching, perforated, large-scale rusted body. Nobody wants to drive it anymore, but nobody wants to throw it away either because the car is technically still in good shape.
⚠️ Warning
Rust holes on load-bearing parts such as sills, underbody struts and longitudinal members must never be filled with filler. These damages must be welded by a professional.
Here’s How:
1
Remove Rust
Get rid of the rust and repair the body yourself.
Completely remove rust, protruding loose metal parts and flaking paint layers. Wrap dry sandpaper – coarse grit P60 – around a sanding block and sand the rusted areas down to bare metal over a large area.
Not a bit of rust must remain visible on the car. Where there was rust before, it must now shine brightly!
Then clean the area very thoroughly with silicone remover.
▶️ Pro Tip
It’s easier and faster with a grinder or cordless drill with attachment. This works great, is more fun and saves enormous time. Three minutes with the grinder saves 20 minutes of tedious manual work. Protect all parts that should not be sanded with masking tape.
2
Filling
Fiber filler can now be applied to the shiny, perfectly sanded and silicone remover-cleaned area.
Fiber filler (filler with polyester fibers) adheres superbly to metal and is stable on its own due to the fine fibers.
Here’s how: Spread fiber filler on a piece of cardboard and add hardener. The correct dosage is important. If you use too much hardener, the filler sets too quickly and can no longer be worked, if you use too little, it won’t cure. Max shows you how to do it right in the video.
Apply the filler generously over the perforated area.
3
Sanding
After 30 minutes the filler has cured and you can sand off the excess filler dry with coarse sandpaper, restoring the original shape of the body.
Protect everything that shouldn’t be primed and painted from overspray again!
Simply use masking paper and masking tape (see video).
4
Fine Work
After everything is sanded flat, level any remaining craters and sanding marks with filler or spray filler.
Shake the spray can long and vigorously until the components in the can are well mixed (about 5 min). The small ball in the can must move easily and freely.
Attach the handle to the can. It works like a spray gun and makes the work much easier.
⚠️ Warning
Primer, filler and paints are harmless according to manufacturers, but certainly not meant for the lungs – so always wear a protective mask!
5
Priming
Now spray the filler in several thin coats (3-5). Let it flash off for 2-3 minutes between spray passes.
The ideal spray distance is 30 cm, the ideal temperature 15 to 20 degrees.
30 minutes after the last spray pass, the filler has cured and the excess can be sanded off with wet sandpaper (P500), sponge and a bucket of water (see video).
Careful work is very important here, all unevenness must be sanded flat.
Feel is important! Don’t sand through to filler or metal, otherwise these areas need to be primed again.
6
Painting
Once the primer is applied, dry (after about 20 min) and sanded, it’s finally time for paint on the metal!
Shake the paint spray vigorously for 5 minutes until the ball is audibly hitting and everything is well mixed. Attach the handle and apply several thin coats.
The ideal spray distance is 30 cm, the ideal temperature 15 to 20 degrees.
Caution! Don’t spray too much at once, otherwise you’ll get runs… In the video, Max shows step by step how to do it right.
7
Clear Coat – Top Coat
After about 30 min. drying time, the clear coat goes over the paint layer.
Shake the clear coat well too and apply in several thin coats (should be at least 5), letting it flash off after each spray pass.
The clear coat protects the metallic particles from oxidation, gives the paint gloss, and is absolutely necessary as a protective layer.
Caution! With solid colors, no clear coat is required. If unsure, email info@dasauto.at or call the hotline.
8
Almost Done
From the outside, your car is now back in top shape, but on the inside of the bare-sanded areas, the metal is now susceptible to new rust.
Therefore, you must absolutely preserve this area.
Very good results are achieved with cavity wax. Cavity wax is the simple, ideal solution for preservation and cavity protection.
After about 1 hour of drying time, the clear coat is hard enough to remove the masking paper.
…and – Voila! The result speaks for itself!
9
Done?
If you now find small edges or transitions in the paint, that’s no problem: After 2 to 3 days the clear coat is completely cured and the edge is simply carefully removed with P2000 wet sandpaper and then polished to a high gloss.
Of course, you’ll now polish the entire car and preserve it with hard wax.
▶️ Important
Rust always spreads underneath the paint. Remove more than you see – rust must be 100% gone!
https://staging.mountaingolf.eu/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/x_Rost_1.jpg320800AutoTomTurbohttps://staging.mountaingolf.eu/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/logo_2017_340x156.pngAutoTomTurbo2018-12-06 19:24:562026-02-03 14:15:05Repair Rust and Rust Holes on Your Car
Bumpers, mirrors, spoilers and fender flares – paint them professionally
▶️ Difficulty Easy
⏱️ Time 3 Hours
▶️ Cost €150
▶️ Savings €500
▶️ Tools None Required
Video Tutorial – Complete Plastic Painting
▶️ Matching Product for This Video
[dasauto_product id=”368834″]
The Problem
Parts like fenders, bumpers, mirrors, spoilers, and flares made of plastic that are replaced or added only look good when they are painted to match the car.
This is also possible without a professional spray gun – simply with dasAuto paint sprays.
Here’s How:
1
Preparation
The plastic part must be checked for exact fit, any manufacturing defects, storage or transport damage must be repaired and adjusted.
Plastic parts that have not been primed by the manufacturer should be carefully sanded with P800 wet sandpaper and thoroughly cleaned with silicone remover. Manufacturers use special solvents to help plastic parts release from the mold more easily. These solvents do not mix well with primer, filler and paint. Thorough cleaning prevents later problems.
▶️ Pro Tip
Create a dust and insect-free environment. If you work in the garage, the floor should be wet to avoid dust.
If you paint outdoors, it should be completely windless. The earlier in the morning, the fewer insects that might land on the freshly painted surface.
If it does happen, remove the insect with tweezers while the paint is still wet. The paint will level out and correct the mistake on its own.
2
Priming and Re-sanding
Apply two coats of plastic primer to the sanded and cleaned plastic part and let it flash off.
After 20 minutes of drying time, the plastic part is – depending on condition – ready for filler or final painting.
Take your time – the more thoroughly you sand, the better the result.
▶️ Pro Tip
To avoid missing any spots when sanding, professionals use guide coat. This way you can immediately see where you’ve already sanded and where you haven’t.
3
Painting
Once the filler is applied, dry (after about 20 min) and sanded, it’s finally time for paint!
Shake the paint spray vigorously for 5 minutes until the ball is audibly hitting and everything is well mixed. Attach the handle, spray the first thin coat (tack coat) and let it flash off for 3 minutes.
Then apply the paint in further thin coats until you have a nice, evenly covering paint layer. Always allow 3 minutes of flash-off time between coats.
The ideal spray distance is 30 cm, the ideal temperature 15 to 20 degrees.
⚠️ Warning
Don’t spray too much at once, otherwise you’ll get runs… In the video, Max shows step by step how to do it right.
4
Clear Coat – Top Coat
After about 30 min. drying time, the clear coat goes over the paint layer.
Shake the clear coat well and apply in 3-5 thin coats, allowing it to flash off after each spray pass.
The clear coat protects the metallic particles from oxidation, gives the paint gloss, and is absolutely necessary as a protective layer.
⚠️ Warning
With solid colors, no clear coat is required. If unsure, email info@dasauto.at or call the hotline (+43 (0) 3687 24515 during business hours).
5
Done?
If you now find small edges, transitions or runs in the paint, that’s no problem:
After 2 to 3 days the clear coat is completely cured and the edge is simply carefully removed with P2000 wet sandpaper and then polished to a high gloss.
Of course, you’ll now polish the entire car and preserve it with hard wax. High gloss and high spirits! Congratulations!
https://staging.mountaingolf.eu/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/x_Lack_Kunst_bb.jpg320800AutoTomTurbohttps://staging.mountaingolf.eu/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/logo_2017_340x156.pngAutoTomTurbo2018-10-21 15:14:132026-02-03 14:14:11Paint Plastic Parts with Spray Paint
Paint fenders, doors, and other metal parts yourself like a pro
▶️ Difficulty Medium
⏱️ Time Required 3-5 Hours
▶️ Cost €50-120
▶️ Savings €300-800 vs. Paint Shop
Video Tutorial
▶️ Our SET for You
[dasauto_product id=”368835″]
The Problem
Damaged sheet metal parts like fenders, doors, hoods, or trunk lids need to be repainted after accident repair, rust treatment, or replacement.
With the right technique and quality materials, you can achieve professional results in your own garage! Save hundreds of euros compared to professional paint shops.
Step-by-Step Instructions:
1
Surface Preparation
Clean the part thoroughly with silicone remover. Repair old paint damage, treat rust spots, fill uneven areas with body filler. This step is crucial – any contamination will cause problems later!
2
Sanding
Sand the entire old paint surface with 400 to 600 grit sandpaper to create a matte finish. This gives the new paint proper adhesion. Then remove dust and degrease the surface completely.
3
Priming (if needed)
On bare metal or after filler work: Apply filler/primer and sand smooth (600 grit) after drying. Wait at least 12 hours before final sanding with P800.
4
Apply Base Coat
Spray base coat in 2-3 thin, even layers. Keep spray distance at 20-25 cm, use cross-coat technique (horizontal, then vertical passes). Let flash off 5-10 minutes between coats.
Warning
Always spray evenly and keep the can moving! Never stay in one spot – that causes runs and drips. Better to apply multiple thin coats than one thick one! If you see runs forming, stop and let it dry before sanding and repainting.
5
Apply Clear Coat
After 20-30 minutes flash-off time from the base coat, apply 2K clear coat in 2-3 layers. The clear coat provides gloss, depth, and essential UV protection for long-lasting results.
6
Drying & Polishing
Let dry for at least 24 hours – ideally 48 hours in a warm, dust-free environment. Polish out any dust inclusions with 2000 grit wet sandpaper and polishing compound for a perfect finish.
Pro Tip
Room temperature should be between 15-25°C (60-77°F). No direct sunlight! For best results, warm the spray cans in lukewarm water (not hot!) before use – this creates finer atomization for a smoother finish. Also, always do a test spray on cardboard first!
https://staging.mountaingolf.eu/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/x_Lack_Blech_bb.jpg320800AutoTomTurbohttps://staging.mountaingolf.eu/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/logo_2017_340x156.pngAutoTomTurbo2018-10-21 14:56:332026-02-03 14:49:05Paint Sheet Metal Parts with Spray Paint
