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The Classic: Rust on Fender and Door Sill

▶️ The Classic: Rust on Fender and Door Sill

Repair typical rust spots on wheel arch and sill in 6 steps

▶️DifficultyMedium
⏱️Time5-7 Hours
▶️Cost~€200
▶️Savings€1800

Complete Video Tutorial (6 Parts)

The Problem

Ugly, highly visible rust spots on the lower edge of the fender and door sill on both sides. This repair can cost up to €2,000 at a body shop!

6 Steps to Success:

1

Preparation

Lift vehicle, remove wheels, inner fender, door. Loosen fender. Mask everything that shouldn’t be painted – interior, brake parts, adjacent panels.

2

Remove Rust

Completely remove all rust with wire brush, rust disc, and sandpaper. All rust must be removed!

3

Prime & Sand

Apply 2K epoxy primer in 2-3 coats. After 12h, wet sand with P800. Apply stone chip protection on lower areas.

4

Base Coat

Shake spray can 2 minutes. Apply multiple thin coats from 30cm distance. First coat thin (adhesion), second coat full coverage.

5

Clear Coat

After 30 minutes, apply 2K clear coat in 2-3 thin layers for UV protection and gloss.

6

Polish & Reassemble

After curing, polish blending area. Reassemble all parts – done!

▶️ Why DIY?

You don’t need to be a pro! Watch our video and you’ll see – you can do this too. Save €1800!

#10: Seal the airbrush

#10: Seal the airbrush

Protecting the artwork—multiple layers of clear coat for lasting shine


EPISODE
10 of 12

DIFFICULTY
Medium

TIME REQUIRED
2 days

Video Tutorial

Recommended SET

2K Clear Coat SET

Go to Shop →

Work Steps:

1

Preparation

Clean the airbrush artwork from dust. Do not touch with bare hands!

2

First coat

Apply a thin mist coat of 2K clear coat. This prevents the artwork from bleeding.

3

Build-up coats

Spray 2K clear coat in 3-4 thin layers. Allow to flash off for 15-20 minutes between layers.

4

Curing & finishing

After 48 hours of drying time, the surface can be polished and waxed.

Protection

The beautiful airbrush work needs protection! Multiple layers of 2K clear coat seal the artwork and provide fuel resistance and UV protection.

Pro Tip

The first coat must be very thin! If you spray too much at once, the solvents can dissolve the airbrush colors.

#07: Paint the frame

#07: Paint the frame

The centerpiece—the frame gets a fresh coat of paint


EPISODE
7 of 12

DIFFICULTY
Medium to Hard

TIME REQUIRED
2-3 days

Video Tutorial

Recommended SET

Frame Painting SET

Go to Shop →

Work Steps:

1

Rust removal

Remove loose rust from the entire frame using a wire brush and sandpaper.

2

Rust treatment

Apply rust converter to all affected areas. Allow to work for at least 24 hours.

3

Priming

After drying (min. 24h), spray with 2K primer in 2 coats.

4

Top coat

Apply frame paint in 2-3 thin coats. Use 2K paint for durability.

The Goal

The frame is the backbone of every motorcycle. A perfect paint job not only looks great but also provides lasting rust protection.

Pro Tip

Hang the frame so you can reach all areas easily. Use a rotating hook for even coverage.

#06: Restore attachments

#06: Restore attachments

Small parts, brackets, and attachments are refurbished


EPISODE
6 of 12

DIFFICULTY
Medium

TIME REQUIRED
1-2 days

Video Tutorial

Recommended SET

Paint & Primer SET

Go to Shop →

Work Steps:

1

Cleaning

Thoroughly clean all small parts. Oil, grease, and old dirt must be completely removed.

2

Rust removal

Remove rust with wire brush, sandpaper, or rust converter.

3

Priming

Treat metal parts with rust-proof primer. Use 2K filler for visible parts.

4

Painting

Paint with matching color or heat-resistant paint for engine parts.

The Goal

While the main parts are drying, we restore all the small parts. Brackets, covers, and accessories are cleaned, primed, and painted.

Pro Tip

Use wire hooks to hang small parts for painting. This way you can spray all sides at once.

#03: Repair previous damage 2

#03: Repair previous damage 2

The fine work—sanding, filling, and final preparation


EPISODE
3 of 12

DIFFICULTY
Medium

TIME REQUIRED
1-2 days

Video Tutorial

Recommended SET

Filler & Primer SET

Go to Shop →

Work Steps:

1

Fine sanding

Smooth the filled areas perfectly with 320 to 600 grit sandpaper. Always sand in one direction!

2

Apply filler

Spray on 2K filler in 2-3 coats. It fills small pores and creates a perfect base for the paint.

3

Control sanding

After drying, sand the filler with 600 to 800 grit sandpaper. Any remaining unevenness will now become apparent.

4

Rework

Make minor repairs with spray filler, then fill and sand again until the surface is perfect.

The Challenge

After rough filling, it’s time for the fine work. The surfaces must be perfectly prepared—every little bump will be visible later in the paintwork!

Pro Tip

Check the surface in raking light! Shine a handheld lamp over the side of the part—this will reveal even the smallest irregularities.

#01: Disassemble completely

▶️️ #01: Disassemble completely

The beginning of a big project – the Kawasaki Drifter is completely disassembled

▶️
Episode
1 of 12
▶️
Difficulty
Medium
⏱️
Time Required
1-2 days

Video Tutorial

▶️ Recommended SET

Complete Paint Set for Motorcycles

Go to Shop →

Work Steps:

1

Documentation

Before disassembly: Take photos! Photograph every screw, every cable, every connection. This helps enormously later during reassembly.

3

Electrics

Disconnect the battery, then systematically disconnect all electrical connections. Mark the plugs!

4

Engine & Gearbox

The engine is removed and stored separately. Drain the oil first!

The Project

The Kawasaki VN800 Drifter – a real gem in Indian style. After many years on the road, it needs a complete restoration.

In this episode the big adventure begins: Everything has to come off! Tank, fairings, engine, wheels – piece by piece the machine is disassembled.

2

Tank & Fairings

First, the tank and all fairing parts come off. Store screws and small parts in labeled bags.

Pro Tip

Use magnetic screw trays and label everything! A smartphone video of the disassembly can be worth gold during reassembly.

Scratches, Dents and Bumps on Your Car

▶️ Scratches, Dents and Bumps on Your Car

Repair minor damage yourself – from preparation to finish

▶️
Difficulty
Medium
⏱️
Time
3-5 Hours
▶️
Cost
€80-150
▶️
Savings
€400-800 vs. Body Shop
▶️
Tools
Sanding Block

Video Tutorial

▶️ Matching Product for This Video

[dasauto_product id=”368833″]

The Problem

Small dents, scratches and bumps from parking mishaps or minor accidents are annoying and lower the value of your car. A body shop often charges €500 or more for such small repairs.

With the right materials and a little patience, you can repair these damages yourself and save a lot of money!

Here’s How:

1

Assessment

First assess the damage. Is it just a scratch in the clear coat, or has the paint been damaged down to the metal? For deep scratches down to the metal, rust protection is essential.

2

Preparation

Clean the damaged area thoroughly with silicone remover. Sand the area around the damage with P320-P400 sandpaper to create adhesion for the filler.

3

Filling

For dents: Apply filler in thin layers. Mix the filler with hardener according to instructions – not too much hardener, otherwise it sets too quickly!

Let each layer dry and sand smooth before applying the next. Build up gradually until the surface is level.

4

Fine Sanding

Once the filler is level with the surrounding area, sand with progressively finer grits: P400, then P600, finally P800. The surface must be perfectly smooth.

▶️ Pro Tip

For paintless dent repair, heat the panel with a heat gun first – the metal becomes more flexible! This works great for small dents without paint damage.

5

Priming

Mask off the surrounding area. Apply filler/primer in 2-3 thin coats. Let it dry for 30 minutes, then sand with P600-P800 wet sandpaper.

6

Painting

Apply base coat in 2-3 thin layers. Keep 25-30cm spray distance. Let flash off 5 minutes between coats. Then apply 2K clear coat in 2-3 layers.

7

Finishing

After 24-48 hours, polish the repaired area with polishing compound to blend it with the surrounding paint. The result should be virtually invisible!

⚠️ Warning

Always work in thin layers! Thick layers of filler crack, thick layers of paint run. Patience is key to a professional result.

Need supplies?

Shop Now →

Spot Repair – Partial Paint Repair

▶️ Spot Repair – Partial Paint Repair

Professionally repair small paint damage without complete repainting

▶️
Difficulty
Medium
⏱️
Time
2-4 Hours
▶️
Cost
€50-100
▶️
Savings
€300-600 vs. Body Shop

Video Tutorial

▶️ Matching Product for This Video

[dasauto_product id=”368832″]

The Problem

Larger scratches, parking damage, or small dents with paint damage require more than just a touch-up pen. The damaged area must be prepared and repaired with spray paint.

With Spot Repair, only the damaged area is painted – not the entire part. This saves time and money!

Here’s How:

1

Preparation

Thoroughly clean the damaged area with silicone remover. Remove loose paint and sand the edges with 800 grit sandpaper.

2

Priming

For areas down to bare metal: First apply rust protection primer, then filler. Let it dry well and sand.

3

Masking

Generously mask off the surrounding area. Use masking film and painter’s tape. The transitions should be able to blend softly.

4

Spraying Base Coat

Apply the base coat in 2-3 thin layers. Let it flash off for 5-10 minutes between coats. Spray distance approx. 20-25 cm.

⚠️ Warning

Don’t apply too thick! Better multiple thin coats than risking runs. With metallic paints, pay attention to consistent spray distance!

▶️ Pro Tip

Work in a dust-free environment at 15-25°C temperature. Avoid direct sunlight! Best to work in the garage with the door open.

5

Applying Clear Coat

After 20-30 minutes of flash-off time, apply 2K clear coat in 2-3 layers. The clear coat provides gloss and protection.

6

Finishing

After 24h drying time, you can polish out any dust inclusions with 2000 grit sandpaper (wet) and polishing compound.

Need supplies?

Shop Now →

Paint Plastic Parts with Spray Paint

▶️ Paint Plastic Parts with Spray Paint

Bumpers, mirrors, spoilers and fender flares – paint them professionally

▶️
Difficulty
Easy
⏱️
Time
3 Hours
▶️
Cost
€150
▶️
Savings
€500
▶️
Tools
None Required

Video Tutorial – Complete Plastic Painting

▶️ Matching Product for This Video

[dasauto_product id=”368834″]

The Problem

Parts like fenders, bumpers, mirrors, spoilers, and flares made of plastic that are replaced or added only look good when they are painted to match the car.

This is also possible without a professional spray gun – simply with dasAuto paint sprays.

Here’s How:

1

Preparation

The plastic part must be checked for exact fit, any manufacturing defects, storage or transport damage must be repaired and adjusted.

Plastic parts that have not been primed by the manufacturer should be carefully sanded with P800 wet sandpaper and thoroughly cleaned with silicone remover. Manufacturers use special solvents to help plastic parts release from the mold more easily. These solvents do not mix well with primer, filler and paint. Thorough cleaning prevents later problems.

▶️ Pro Tip

Create a dust and insect-free environment. If you work in the garage, the floor should be wet to avoid dust.

If you paint outdoors, it should be completely windless. The earlier in the morning, the fewer insects that might land on the freshly painted surface.

If it does happen, remove the insect with tweezers while the paint is still wet. The paint will level out and correct the mistake on its own.

2

Priming and Re-sanding

Apply two coats of plastic primer to the sanded and cleaned plastic part and let it flash off.

After 20 minutes of drying time, the plastic part is – depending on condition – ready for filler or final painting.

Take your time – the more thoroughly you sand, the better the result.

▶️ Pro Tip

To avoid missing any spots when sanding, professionals use guide coat. This way you can immediately see where you’ve already sanded and where you haven’t.

3

Painting

Once the filler is applied, dry (after about 20 min) and sanded, it’s finally time for paint!

Shake the paint spray vigorously for 5 minutes until the ball is audibly hitting and everything is well mixed. Attach the handle, spray the first thin coat (tack coat) and let it flash off for 3 minutes.

Then apply the paint in further thin coats until you have a nice, evenly covering paint layer. Always allow 3 minutes of flash-off time between coats.

The ideal spray distance is 30 cm, the ideal temperature 15 to 20 degrees.

⚠️ Warning

Don’t spray too much at once, otherwise you’ll get runs… In the video, Max shows step by step how to do it right.

4

Clear Coat – Top Coat

After about 30 min. drying time, the clear coat goes over the paint layer.

Shake the clear coat well and apply in 3-5 thin coats, allowing it to flash off after each spray pass.

The clear coat protects the metallic particles from oxidation, gives the paint gloss, and is absolutely necessary as a protective layer.

⚠️ Warning

With solid colors, no clear coat is required. If unsure, email info@dasauto.at or call the hotline (+43 (0) 3687 24515 during business hours).

5

Done?

If you now find small edges, transitions or runs in the paint, that’s no problem:

After 2 to 3 days the clear coat is completely cured and the edge is simply carefully removed with P2000 wet sandpaper and then polished to a high gloss.

Of course, you’ll now polish the entire car and preserve it with hard wax. High gloss and high spirits! Congratulations!

Need supplies?

Shop Now →

Paint Sheet Metal Parts with Spray Paint

▶️ Paint Sheet Metal Parts with Spray Paint

Paint fenders, doors, and other metal parts yourself like a pro

▶️
Difficulty
Medium
⏱️
Time Required
3-5 Hours
▶️
Cost
€50-120
▶️
Savings
€300-800 vs. Paint Shop

Video Tutorial

▶️ Our SET for You

[dasauto_product id=”368835″]

The Problem

Damaged sheet metal parts like fenders, doors, hoods, or trunk lids need to be repainted after accident repair, rust treatment, or replacement.

With the right technique and quality materials, you can achieve professional results in your own garage! Save hundreds of euros compared to professional paint shops.

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1

Surface Preparation

Clean the part thoroughly with silicone remover. Repair old paint damage, treat rust spots, fill uneven areas with body filler. This step is crucial – any contamination will cause problems later!

2

Sanding

Sand the entire old paint surface with 400 to 600 grit sandpaper to create a matte finish. This gives the new paint proper adhesion. Then remove dust and degrease the surface completely.

3

Priming (if needed)

On bare metal or after filler work: Apply filler/primer and sand smooth (600 grit) after drying. Wait at least 12 hours before final sanding with P800.

4

Apply Base Coat

Spray base coat in 2-3 thin, even layers. Keep spray distance at 20-25 cm, use cross-coat technique (horizontal, then vertical passes). Let flash off 5-10 minutes between coats.

Warning

Always spray evenly and keep the can moving! Never stay in one spot – that causes runs and drips. Better to apply multiple thin coats than one thick one! If you see runs forming, stop and let it dry before sanding and repainting.

5

Apply Clear Coat

After 20-30 minutes flash-off time from the base coat, apply 2K clear coat in 2-3 layers. The clear coat provides gloss, depth, and essential UV protection for long-lasting results.

6

Drying & Polishing

Let dry for at least 24 hours – ideally 48 hours in a warm, dust-free environment. Polish out any dust inclusions with 2000 grit wet sandpaper and polishing compound for a perfect finish.

Pro Tip

Room temperature should be between 15-25°C (60-77°F). No direct sunlight! For best results, warm the spray cans in lukewarm water (not hot!) before use – this creates finer atomization for a smoother finish. Also, always do a test spray on cardboard first!

Need supplies?

Shop Now →